The right jigsaw and the right blade

Most bad jigsaw cuts come from the wrong blade or setting, not the saw. Tell us what you cut, how thick and how you cut it. We’ll spec the saw you need and pick the blade: teeth per inch, length, tooth material, orbit and speed.

What are you cutting?

Max thickness you’ll cut regularly.
Kind of cuts (choose all)
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Cutting depth (wood)–
Power–
Orbital action–
Speed setting–
Grip–
Must-have features–
Blade teeth per inch
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Blade length (T-shank)
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How to choose a jigsaw

A jigsaw cuts with a short blade that moves up and down 500 to 3,100 times a minute. It is the most versatile power saw for curves, cut-outs and odd shapes in wood, plastic, metal and even tile. Three specifications matter most:

Then look at the features that make cuts accurate: tool-free blade change, a solid (cast or steel) base plate that bevels to 45°, variable speed with a dial, a dust blower or extraction port, a splinter guard and an LED light. A 3- or 4-position orbital (pendulum) action lets you choose between fast and clean cuts.

Choosing blade teeth per inch (TPI)

The golden rule: at least three teeth should be in the material at any moment. Fewer teeth cut faster but rougher; more teeth cut slower and cleaner. The minimum TPI follows from the thickness:

Minimum TPI = 3 ÷ material thickness (in inches)

For wood thicker than about 1/2 in, this gives a low number, so the choice depends on finish: 6–8 TPI for fast rough cuts, 10–12 TPI for clean cuts in plywood and laminate. For thin metal the rule pushes the TPI up – 1/16 in (1.5 mm) steel needs 21–36 TPI so the teeth don’t snag.

Blade materials

CodeMaterialUse for
HCSHigh-carbon steelSoftwood, plywood, MDF, plastics – flexible and cheap
HSSHigh-speed steelMetal, aluminum, non-ferrous metals
BIMBi-metal (HSS teeth on a flexible body)Hardwood, wood with nails, metal – lasts much longer
TC / carbideCarbide teeth or gritTile, fiber cement, fiberglass, laminate in volume

Almost all modern jigsaws use the T-shank blade fitting. Blades marked “down-cut” or “reverse tooth” cut on the down stroke and leave a clean top surface on countertops and veneered panels. Narrow “scroll” blades turn tight curves; thick blades cut straighter.

Orbital action and speed

Orbital (pendulum) action swings the blade forward on the up-stroke for faster, more aggressive cuts in wood. Use high orbit for rough cuts in softwood, medium for hardwood and plywood, and no orbit for metal, plastic, laminate and tile, and whenever you want a clean edge or tight curves. Lower speeds keep plastic from melting and metal blades from overheating.

FAQ

What is a good wattage for a jigsaw?

600–750 W (5–6 A at 120 V) covers most DIY work up to 2 in (50 mm) hardwood. Choose 750 W or more for thick hardwood and daily use.

Can a jigsaw cut a 2×4?

Yes. A 2×4 is 1.5 in (38 mm) thick, well within the capacity of almost any jigsaw. Use a 6–8 TPI wood blade with orbital action for speed, but a circular saw makes straighter cross-cuts.

How do I stop splintering?

Use a fine 10–12 TPI or down-cut blade, switch off the orbital action, fit the splinter guard, apply masking tape along the line and cut with the good face down.

Corded or cordless jigsaw?

Cordless 18/20 V brushless jigsaws are now strong enough for most work and much more convenient. Corded saws are cheaper and better for long cutting sessions in thick hardwood.

Top-handle or barrel-grip?

Top-handle saws are the most common and easy to guide for straight and general cuts. Barrel-grip saws let you hold the tool lower and closer to the work, which many people prefer for intricate curves.

Can a jigsaw cut ceramic tile?

Yes, with a carbide-grit blade, low speed and no orbit. It is slow and best for curves and notches around pipes; use a tile cutter for straight cuts.